Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 1: Journey to Valbona (2023)
In this stage, I travel to Valbona by ferry and hike a portion of the mountain to camp there. Parts of the journey are covered by car, the ferry is taken, and the final stretch is on foot. The route traverses through the mountains and offers occasional stunning views.
The original Dutch version is available here
Begin of the journey in Shkodër:
I flew to Tirana and then travelled to Shkodër by bus. The last part of the journey started from the hotel. The hotel had reserved a spot in the minibus to Koman the day before. So, the minibus takes you to the Koman port, where you board the ferry to Fierzë and then another minibus takes you to Valbona. Depending on your departure point, the journey starts at either 6:45 am or, in my case, 7:00 am. The journey lasts until approximately 2:30 pm. I travelled with the company Berisha.
On that morning, there was another passenger who was very nervous. He repeatedly asked the staff if the bus would really come and became quite stressed when the bus to Theth arrived. He quickly ran to catch the bus to Valbona, even though seats were already reserved. By the way, reservations are not mandatory.
Alternative option: Direct to Theth:
There is also a minibus that goes directly to Theth (from Shkodër), which takes about 2.5 hours. I didn’t use this option, but it is available.
Alternative option: Podgorica to Plav:
There is also a minibus that goes from Podgorica to Plav, this minibus goes 5 times a day.
Quafa Rasa:
Along the way, the bus stops at a spot where you have a view of a fjord with round fish farms floating on the water. Fish are bred in these basins. At this point, tickets were also checked, and you could buy one on the spot.
Koman:
When you arrive in Koman, you first cross a bridge with quite a few potholes and then go through a tunnel. There is a police officer there to regulate the one-way traffic, but still, several cars came from the opposite direction, which the Mercedes bus skilfully manoeuvred past.
Koman Ferry to Fierzë:
The ferry ride is the most beautiful part. A dam has been built in Koman, creating a reservoir. So, you travel over this magnificent reservoir for the next 3 hours. When I was there, two ferries were operating simultaneously: one for cars and one for pedestrians. I was on the pedestrian ferry. Along the way, it made several stops to unload barrels and sacks of flour, which were then transported uphill with a donkey.
From Fierzë to Valbona:
From the ferry, you have to walk uphill for a bit. Down below, there are other vans waiting in case you don’t have tickets; you could use those as well, although I’m not sure how reliable they are. So, I walked up the hill, and the people from Berisha were already waiting there. They had deployed too few vans, but I was quick enough, so I could board immediately. The driver asked everyone if they had made a reservation and which guesthouse they were heading to. The final stretch is covered by another Mercedes van through the mountains to Valbona. From the car, you have a magnificent view of the valleys you pass through. I sat next to a woman from Hong Kong who was already thrilled by the snow-capped mountain peaks. She was going hiking in the mountains with a local guide and six friends in total.
Start of the Valbona — Çerem Route via the Perslopit Pass:
For the route from Valbona to Çerem, there are various options. You can walk through the valley and take the asphalt road, and then cut through the interior. I chose to go via the Perslopit Pass. It’s a bit more difficult but incredibly beautiful. I camped here at the first opportunity so that I could start this section the next day.
Camping:
Just off the trail, I set up my tent, and about an hour and a half before dark, a group of Austrians who had hiked from Plav (Montenegro) passed by. I didn’t ask them why they were so late, but I assume it was due to the difficulty of the route.
Conclusion:
Stage 1 of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail to Valbona offers an adventurous travel experience through the beautiful landscape of Albania. The journey begins in Shkodër, where you are taken to the Koman port by minibus. You then embark on an impressive journey across the Koman reservoir with the ferry, where you can enjoy breathtaking views. From Fierzë, you continue to Valbona by minibus, treating yourself to picturesque mountain landscapes along the way. An alternative option is to travel directly to Theth by minibus. Upon arrival in Valbona, the true hiking adventure begins. You have the option to take the challenging route via the Perslopit Pass, which is more difficult but rewards you with stunning vistas. Overall, Stage 1 of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail is a fantastic travel experience.
← No previous stage ˙ — ˙ Next Stage →
There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here
← No previous stage ˙ — ˙ Next Stage →
