Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 11: Theth to Valbona (2023)
In this stage, I hike the most touristy and popular section of the Albanian Alps. Over the past few days, many people have mentioned that this route gets crowded. The trail from Theth to Valbona is one of the most beautiful hikes in this breathtaking region. This blog post takes you on an unforgettable journey, exploring the beauty of nature, conquering hiking challenges, and savoring the pristine splendor of Albania.
The original Dutch version is available here
Theth — The Gateway to the Mountains
Theth, a village with more guesthouses and hotels than residents, serves as the gateway for many to the mountains. It’s noticeably more touristy than other villages along the route, and there is ongoing construction, adding to its allure.
The Adventure Begins
The hike from Theth to Valbona is approximately 15 kilometers long and takes about 7 hours, according to the signs. The trail winds through deep gorges, steep mountain paths, and green valleys. Along the way, you are rewarded with panoramic views of snow-capped peaks and lush alpine meadows.
The previous day, I completed the first hour of the stage to camp in an alpine meadow. I woke up just before sunrise, around 4 o’clock in the morning, so I could start early. After preparing my oatmeal and packing up my tent, I embarked on this stage.
Bar Kafe Zef Rrgalla
For the first 2.5 hours, I was the only hiker on the trail. I walked through forests and enjoyed breathtaking views. On the way, I passed by a mountain hut called “Bar Kafe Zef Rrgalla,” where a dog barked loudly. The owner came out and offered me coffee, but I declined at that moment.
Valbona Pass
The route includes a challenging but rewarding climb up the Valbona Pass, which provides a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. From here, you can see Mount “Maja Jezercë,” the highest peak in the Accursed Mountains, spanning Kosovo and Montenegro. The pass also offers views of the Theth and Valbona valleys. Afterward, a beautiful descent follows, leading to the Valbona Valley.
Descent
The path winds down along Mount Maja Valbones, revealing the dry Valbona River. The landscape becomes less rocky, and pine trees appear.
Encounters with Fellow Hikers
As the descent became less steep, I encountered the first hiker coming from the opposite direction. It was an Italian couple who had started from Valbona at 5:30 in the morning, and by then, it was 9:30. A little further, I met a German couple who had begun at 6:45 but had taken a car for the first 5 kilometers and were dropped off at the end of the road.
Later, I had a conversation with a couple from the Netherlands who asked how long I had been on the trail. At that point, it had been about 4 hours, which matched the walking distance indicated on a sign behind me, so I was on track. Further ahead, I chatted with an Australian couple who had been traveling around Europe for five months. They were only doing day trips and had visited various places in Europe.
I also met a Flemish lady, who confessed that this hike was well beyond her comfort zone, and she planned to head to the coast for the rest of her vacation. Nevertheless, she wanted to challenge herself with a mountain hike. Later, I waited for a group of hikers coming from the opposite direction and had a short conversation with them. They were from Switzerland and admitted to taking a car for the initial part of their hike. Suddenly, they switched to speaking German, assuming all Dutch speakers understood German, the man joked.
Further on, I met Vincent, who was traveling with a guitar and a tent. He described his pace as “tranquillo,” which means taking it easy. He was on his way to Theth but was still undecided about his next destination. I offered him some tips about different stages of the “Peaks of the Balkans Trail.”
Another encounter was with a couple from New Zealand who had been traveling around Europe for several months. Their plan was to journey through the Balkan countries, then head to Hungary, Poland, Germany, and finally return to the low countries. The man carried a Canon camera, which he said was quite heavy. His wife mentioned that she often had to encourage him to use the camera.
Valbona — Following the Valbona River
The trail leads along the dry Valbona River, with its bed mostly covered in gray stones. The last five kilometers consist of walking on an asphalt road, which is rare on the complete route, but it seems unavoidable here.
Guesthouse Experience
That evening, I stayed at a guesthouse in Valbona and had a conversation with Albert, the owner. He shared stories about his grandfather, who fought for Albania’s independence in 1912, and how the bunkers remained active until 1990. His uncle mentioned that there are only two surnames in Valbona, making everyone there practically family.
Conclusion
The stage from Theth to Valbona in the Albanian Alps offers an unforgettable hiking experience in a breathtaking area. Despite the crowds and popularity of this route, the beauty of nature remains intact. Theth serves as a lively tourist area and the gateway to the mountains. The 15-kilometer hike takes you through deep gorges, steep mountain paths, and green valleys, rewarding you with stunning views of snow-capped peaks and lush alpine meadows. The Valbona Pass presents a challenging ascent, but the panoramic view of the surrounding mountains makes it worthwhile. The descent to the Valbona Valley reveals a changing landscape with dry riverbeds and pine trees. Along the way, you encounter fellow hikers from different countries with diverse hiking experiences. The route culminates in Valbona, where you can enjoy a guesthouse stay and interact with locals, who take pride in their history and heritage. Despite a short stretch on an asphalt road, the Theth to Valbona stage offers an unforgettable journey filled with natural splendor, challenges, and the charm of Albania.
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There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here
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