Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 9: Ropojansko Jezero to Qafa e Pejës (2023)
In this stage, I start my day a bit before the “Ropojansko Jezero” lake. Initially, the path leads through a forest until reaching the “Ropojansko Jezero” lake. Afterward, the trail continues through another section of woods until reaching above the tree line. There, one can find a ruin on the meadows. Further ahead, the terrain becomes rocky with a stream running through it. Then, the abandoned bunkers start to appear, and I eventually end this part of the journey just past the highest point near the green lake, Liqeni Pejës.
The original Dutch version is available here
Encountering Familiar Faces and “Ropojansko Jezero” or Liqeni i Gjeshtarës:
During the journey through the forests before the lake, I meet the same Dutch travelers I had spoken to after Plav (Stage 6). They had explored a nearby village and stayed there overnight. They shared their story of how they ended up in the USA. They had completed their PhDs there and decided to settle down. It had been more than 20 years since they left the Netherlands, and they had also lived in China. They only returned to the Netherlands to visit family.
About “Ropojansko Jezero” or Liqeni i Gjeshtarës:
The Ropojan Lake, also known as Liqeni i Gjeshtarës, is located at the end of the Ropojan Valley and is usually visible at the beginning of summer. By the end of summer, it typically dries up. However, due to the abundant rainfall this year, the lake is still present in July. To reach the lake, one can use a 4x4 vehicle from Vusanje or park just outside Vusanje and hike for an hour.
Meeting Other Hikers and Bunkers:
Between the lake and the Albanian border, I take a break. Water sources are scarce in this area, so I decide to collect some water from the lake as a precaution, even though I hope not to need it. Later, I discover a stream a little further on, where I could have obtained fresh water. Two Amsterdam boys approach me; they started in Plav and are trying to complete an abbreviated version of the route in just five days. They ask me to take a photo of both of them by the lake, and I provide them with some tips about the route, reminding them not to miss the border post they would have passed.
Further along the trail, I encounter a couple from Aachen, Germany, at the ruins. She has a smaller version of the backpack I am using and finds it beautiful because it’s not too wide. They were considering whether to camp during the trip, but she didn’t want to, so they opted for traveling from guesthouse to guesthouse. They mentioned enjoying the Eifelsteig trail, a 313-kilometer long-distance route with 15 stages in the German Eifel region.
The historical bunkers I encounter on the way to the pass are remnants of a period between 1967 and 1986 when the communist leader Enver Hoxha ordered the construction of over 500,000 bunkers throughout Albania. This route offers a glimpse into the region’s past when it was a forbidden zone during the communist era, as Hoxha feared attacks from neighboring enemies. Fortunately, no invasion occurred, and the soldiers stationed in these remote parts of the Balkans never had to fight, though they must have felt quite bored, at least they had a great view. According to locals, the bunkers were only used for training and were abandoned after 1990.
Camping at Liqeni Pejës:
I camp a few hundred meters below, just before the beautiful green lake, Liqeni Pejës. During sunset, I climb to the highest point, where I enjoy a magnificent view of the mountain pass and the bunkers, visible in the distance.
Conclusion:
This stage of the journey begins with a hike through forests leading to the stunning “Ropojansko Jezero” lake. Along the way, I meet interesting people, such as Dutch travelers who have been living abroad for many years and a couple from Aachen. The lake itself is a remarkable spot at the end of the Ropojan Valley, and it’s usually dried up by the end of summer, but not this year due to abundant rainfall. After passing the lake, the trail continues through a forest, passing by old ruins where I encounter the Aachen couple. Then, the journey takes me past historical bunkers from the communist era, offering a glimpse into the region’s past. Finally, I camp near the beautiful green lake, Liqeni Pejës, enjoying the breathtaking view of the mountain pass and the bunkers. This stage offers both natural beauty and interesting encounters with fellow travelers.
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There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here
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