Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 2 Valbona to Qafa Borit (Çerem) (2023)

Dion van Velde
6 min readJul 14, 2023

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The stage through the Perslopit pass is a challenging and difficult hike that crosses a high mountain pass. The route is rocky, and there was still snow on June 19th. From Albania, you walk a short distance through Montenegro before re-entering Albania near an old border post. Along the way, crocuses bloom, and I also came across wild orchids.

The original Dutch version is available here

Valbona

Just outside Valbona, I set up my tent, which offers a beautiful view of the Valbona Valley and the village. Further on, there is a beautiful alpine meadow, and you walk through a forest beyond the tree line.

Occasionally Open Cafe

When it becomes rocky and you continue to climb, you pass a shack-like barn that is abandoned. It is said to be a café that occasionally opens, but when I passed by, there was no one there.

Gentiana verna and Elder-flowered orchid

On some alpine meadows, the Gentiana verna n is a commonly occurring plant. It is also found in European medium-sized mountain ranges such as the Jura and the Balkan Mountains. The Elder-flowered orchid prefers slightly acidic to calcareous soils, in full sun or light shade, in moist to moderately dry places. It can be found in the mountains from 500 to 2500 meters, in limestone grasslands, alpine meadows, forest edges, and open pine forests.

Snow

The pass runs between the two mountains, and due to limited sunlight, there is still snow. There are several sections where you walk through the snow. This can be challenging for hiking, especially the slopes you traverse.
Along the way, I encountered the same couple twice. The first time, they already seemed exhausted, and a few hours later, they confirmed it. They had come from the opposite direction until they reached the snow and then turned back.

Mountaineering

I met a German from Stuttgart on the way, and he wanted to climb one of the mountains here. Higher up, there was even more snow, making it even more challenging. He was staying in a guesthouse and didn’t have much gear with him.

Stray Dog

Meanwhile, a stray dog had also discovered that I was hiking here, and he followed me for hours. He would disappear for a while and then come back. Eventually, he joined another group that gave the dog attention and food. I mostly left the dog alone and didn’t pay much attention to it.

Bora and Water

After crossing the pass, the path becomes easier. There are no water sources between Valbona and Bora. Bora is located just before the Albanian border. In the final stretch, there are several streams, making it easy to find water. I am hiking the trail at the beginning of the season, so the situation may be different later in the season.

Border Post

At the border post, there was a group of Chinese tourists resting and eating. The stray dog also came by, and it received all the attention. They asked if I could take a photo of the whole group, so I did. I also appear in the photo at the border post, but I didn’t post it because I think the photo in the snow is more beautiful. Sunset
I camped fairly close to the border, and I went back to take some photos during sunset.

Conclusion

The stage through the Perslopit pass is a challenging and difficult trek through rocky terrain, with snow even in June. Despite the difficulties, the breathtaking landscape of the Valbona Valley and Valbona village offers a magnificent view. During the journey, you encounter crocuses, wild orchids, and alpine meadows. An abandoned barn, encounters with fellow travelers like a German mountaineer, and a stray dog make the adventure more interesting. After crossing the pass and reaching Bora, the path becomes easier with water supply from streams. At the border post, I met a group of Chinese tourists, while the sunset provided a beautiful ending. The trek through the Perslopit pass is a challenging adventure in a breathtaking landscape, ideal for adventurous hikers who love nature.

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There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here

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Dion van Velde
Dion van Velde

Written by Dion van Velde

Hiker, Blogger, Photographer, Swimmer, Software Developer at Greenchoice https://qdraw.nl/blog

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