Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 4 Dobërdol to Maja e Male (2023)
In this stage, you first hike through a green valley before entering the rocky mountains after Dobërdol, reaching elevations above 2000 meters. I camped and ended up between the mountain peaks in Kosovo, just before Dobërdol.
The original Dutch version is available here
Dobërdol
The valley where Dobërdol is located is truly beautiful. You walk through forests and in other places, you have stunning panoramic views. The village is situated slightly south of the tripoint of Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. At the guesthouse where I went for a cup of coffee, I spoke with a 10-year-old girl who was helping to keep everything running. She spoke English quite well, but her mother didn’t. She told me about other hikers who had also camped and had a bear visit their tent at night, which quickly went away. Others showed her a photo of a bear. I asked her if she wanted anything else for the coffee, and it was 100 Lek, which is about one euro. In the background, I heard her mother commenting on it, although I don’t understand the language.
In this small village, there are several guesthouses, and then you hike up through a grassy landscape. The trail markings here are quite unclear, but thanks to Maps.me, I was able to find my way. Despite the landscape being a meadow, you do climb to just below 2000 meters above sea level.
Ljukšterp
From Dobërdol, you hike uphill, and at the border with Montenegro, you have a magnificent view over Dobërdol and the valley in Montenegro. Here, I met a group with a guide. They are from Portugal and Washington, USA. The American man even took a photo of me on this mountain pass.
Kosovo-Montenegro Border
The route goes along a mountain ridge, offering panoramic views of both countries. In the initial section, you still encounter small patches of snow. It’s a truly beautiful stretch, and you encounter fewer people here. Apparently, many people skip this section.
Along the way, you also come across a three-meter-wide gravel road. There is a monument here for the freedom fighters from Kosovo. There has been fierce fighting for this border. In the past, the area was heavily mined, but all the mines have been cleared, and according to the route organization, it is now safe to be here.
I spoke with two German trail runners who claimed they were only running downhill. Their plan was to go to Milishevc (Kosovo). They had already covered around 11 kilometers by 3:00 PM and planned to continue their route. They had spoken to a French couple who told a story about a bear near their tent.
Camping
I camped at an elevation of 2170 meters above sea level, near a stream and a pit with a few meters of snow remaining. In the evening, I enjoyed a beautiful blue hour.
Conclusion
The stage from Çerem to Dobërdol offers an impressive hiking experience with diverse landscapes. From the green valley of Çerem, you hike to the rocky mountains of Dobërdol, reaching elevations above 2000 meters. Dobërdol itself is a picturesque village with welcoming guesthouses. The ascent to the mountains provides panoramic views, and the route along the border with Montenegro is less crowded. Along the way, you pass a monument and can enjoy safe and beautiful camping spots at high altitudes. Overall, the Çerem to Dobërdol stage is recommended for adventurous hikers who want to enjoy diverse landscapes, hospitality, and breathtaking views in the Balkans.
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There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here
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