Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 5 Maja e Male to Hridsko Jezero (2023)
The first part of this stage takes you through the high mountains in Kosovo, descending into Montenegro. Here, I did took a shortcut from the original route and headed towards Babino Polje to continue along the official route. From Babino Polje, you hike through a pine forest, initially on a gravel road, and reach a lake nestled between the mountains.
The original Dutch version is available here
Maja e Male
For me, this stage begins in the mountains of Kosovo, where you have stunning views of the valleys. The Crocuses have started blooming, and I spotted the Alpine Aster and a Gentian. The Crocus originates from the mountains around the Mediterranean.
Zavoje
At Zavoje, I deviate from the original route and head towards Babino Polje to continue along the official route. This section of the trail is not clearly marked, but with the help of maps.me, I managed to navigate through.
Katun Canovica (Babino Polje)
When I arrived at the sheep farm, the three dogs started barking loudly as I was trying to figure out my next direction. The owner approached me and asked if I wanted anything. I could get anything, but a Turkish coffee was enough for me. She spoke a little English and mentioned that she had around 100 sheep that graze in the mountains during the summer. Her son was also there, but he didn’t speak any English.
On the map, there is a path that should run along the river, but the river is about four meters wide here. A bit further, there is a pedestrian bridge and a ford for cars. Along the way, I encountered a horse tied to a tree. The horse was already turned away from me, and I got the impression it wasn’t too pleased with my presence.
Eko Lodge in Babino Polje
I also made a quick stop at the Eko Lodge, but there was no one there. People in the Peaks of the Balkans Facebook group weren’t very positive about the price-quality ratio of the Eko Lodge. According to the signs outside, they do offer a taxi service to Plav. I didn’t see anyone, but perhaps it was still early in the season.
Hridsko Jezero
From Babino Polje, a gravel road leads up the mountain. Suddenly, a motorcyclist without a helmet came racing by. The uphill stretch is not particularly remarkable, but luckily, it’s not asphalt. It’s several kilometers up the mountain to the two Katuns. Katuns are traditional summer settlements typical of the mountain areas in Montenegro. These temporary summer settlements were primarily established in the valleys and ravines of the mountain areas with rich meadows and sufficient water. Katuns consist of huts, cottages, and outbuildings made of natural materials such as wood, stone, and straw. Shepherds, mainly sheepherders, moved to these Katuns in spring and summer to lead a nomadic lifestyle during these months. The animals graze on these high mountain meadows and provide for their needs during these months and the upcoming harsh winter.
According to the signs on the road, you should be able to stay here overnight, although I didn’t see anyone outside or speak to anyone there.
After the two settlements, the road becomes a dirt path that continues up the mountain. Eventually, you reach the lake “Hridsko Jezero.” Just before the lake, I met a couple from Estonia. I briefly talked about my hiking experience in Estonia, and I could tell from the guide’s response that he had never really heard of the country.
At the lake, I spoke with four Germans. The group of friends was discussing their next destination. I told them about Kosovo and the mountain range, which they found interesting. They also had different times when they needed to return home, so it was quite a puzzle for them. One of them worked in the Netherlands near Venlo and was moderately enthusiastic about it. According to him, there are worse places in the world.
A bit further, I met a French couple, and I had a conversation with the guy for a while. He spoke English, but you could clearly hear his French accent. They had been traveling around Montenegro by car for 16 days and had also reached the lake by car. He had a Sony A77 Mark 2 camera and multiple lenses with him. He could surely take beautiful photos with that setup. He also mentioned that there had been a lot of rain at the beginning of the month.
Camping
Further ahead, I set up my tent in the woods. From this spot, there wasn’t a particularly nice view, but I had made significant progress towards Plav, and it was time to stop.
Conclusion
The fifth stage of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, from Maja e Male to Hridsko Jezero, offers a breathtaking hiking experience through the mountains from Kosovo to Montenegro. The route includes stunning panoramic views of valleys, and you can admire various flowers such as Crocuses, Alpine Asters, and Gentians. Despite the challenging navigation in some sections, such as between Zavoje and Babino Polje, tools like maps.me provide helpful support. Along the way, you encounter interesting encounters, like meeting the owner of a sheep farm at Babino Polje, where you can taste an authentic Turkish coffee. The route also passes by the Eko Lodge in Babino Polje. The section in between is moderately interesting. Eventually, you reach Hridsko Jezero, where you can enjoy the beautiful lake. The article concludes with the camping experience in the woods near Plav, where there may not be a spectacular view. Overall, this stage offers an adventurous and engaging hiking experience with abundant natural beauty and cultural encounters.
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There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here
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