Peaks of the Balkans Trail Stage 6 Hridsko Jezero to Plav (2023)

In this stage, I start at the Hridsko Jezero lake and hike towards Plav. The route follows simple forest trails and later sandy roads leading to Plav, a small town in northern Montenegro. I arranged for a hotel in Plav and stayed overnight.

The original Dutch version is available here

Gradina

I camped in the woods near the lake and walked through the forest towards Plav. Along the way, I reached the first farmhouse where two dogs were barking loudly. Despite starting early in the morning, it was already getting quite warm. I continued walking along the sandy road, entering the inhabited area.

Prokletije National Park

On the road, there was a 30-year-old Mercedes with three men. One of them was busy talking on the phone while the other two were engaged in a conversation, with one pointing and shouting. So, I greeted them politely and continued walking. One of them started calling out to me. In half broken English, he tried to explain that I had to come to his office further ahead and pay something. I asked if I had to pay now, but he said it wasn’t necessary.

I continued walking calmly, and the old Mercedes with the three men passed by me. Further on, a man rushed out of a shed and started shouting at me. Apparently, that was his office, and he insisted that I buy a ticket there. The man couldn’t explain why I needed to buy a ticket; I was supposed to read it on the back of the ticket. It mentioned something about nature conservation, so I hope they allocate funds to that cause. For entry into a national park in Montenegro, you have to pay €3 per day.

Euro and Montenegro

Montenegro uses the euro as its currency because it doesn’t have its own currency. Since 1996, the German mark has been the de facto currency in all transactions. When the German mark was replaced by the euro in 2002, the transition was made without objections from the European Central Bank (ECB). Unlike the “official” members of the Eurozone, Montenegro doesn’t mint its own coins and therefore doesn’t have its own national side of the euro coins. Like Albania and Kosovo, Montenegro is not a member of the European Union.

Plav

As you hike through the mountains, you can already see the town of Plav from a distance. It keeps getting warmer. In the afternoon, after finding a hotel, thunderstorms and rain began.

In the evening, I spoke with Rolf at a restaurant. He is a retired German motorcyclist who used to teach at a vocational school in Germany. In April, he started his journey from Cologne, traveling south through the French Alps. Sometimes, routes were closed due to snow, but he still tried to pass through, with varying success. If there was too much snow, he would turn back and find another way to continue his route. He traveled through the Pyrenees (Spain) to Corsica, Sardinia, and Sicily before reaching Italy. From Italy, he took the ferry to Albania. In Albania, he visited Shkodër, and now he was in Plav (Montenegro). He preferred riding on asphalt roads, which he found well-maintained here. He avoided roads that were in poor condition, as those were more suitable for younger motorcyclists. He had decided to stay in the area a bit longer because it was so beautiful. However, he had to return in time, or he was afraid his wife wouldn’t let him come back. He talked about the import of German and Swiss Volkswagens to Montenegro and how everyone in Albania wanted to have a Mercedes. Many cars are directly imported from Germany or Switzerland because these countries keep track of mileage during periodic inspections, and buyers in their own countries fear odometer tampering. In Albania and Montenegro, cash is the main form of payment, and debit or credit cards are rarely used. Debit cards are only used at banks to withdraw cash from ATMs. He tried to pay with his debit card, but they didn’t accept it there.

Apartmani Ambiente Plav

I stayed at Hotel Ambiente, located next to the river. The owner was friendly, and the room was tidy. The only downside was that there was a party going on until 2:30 AM, and it was clearly audible. I hadn’t asked about it before, but that’s why there were earplugs in the room.

Conclusion

The stage from Hridsko Jezero lake to Plav in Montenegro offered a mix of natural beauty and encounters. The route followed simple forest trails and later sandy roads, allowing me to enjoy the surroundings. Along the way, I faced some challenges, such as the confusing incident with the men and the old Mercedes, as well as the mandatory payment for access to Prokletije National Park. Upon reaching Plav, I found accommodation at Hotel Ambiente, situated by the river. Although the room was neat, I was disturbed at night by a party that lasted until the early hours. Overall, this stage provided an adventurous and somewhat surprising experience, allowing me to enjoy the stunning natural environment of Montenegro and connect with interesting people.

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There is an overview of the Peaks of the Balkans series, you can find it here

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